Chapter 3 Red crab migration AN EXPERIENCE IN Kavieng, Papua New Guinea

The journey can be long and arduous, and unfortunately, many crabs perish along the way. The red crab migration is an extraordinary natural phenomenon, and I consider myself fortunate to have witnessed it firsthand. This annual event takes place on the east coast of New Ireland, PNG and Christmas Island in Papua, where millions of red crabs embark on a remarkable journey from the rainforest to the ocean for breeding purposes. Despite the challenges they face, including the loss of numerous lives, those that make it to the ocean are rewarded with the opportunity to mate and generate thousands of offspring. Truly, the red crab migration is a breathtaking spectacle, and I feel privileged to have experienced this awe-inspiring phenomenon.

The red crabs of New Ireland are a distinct species of land crab endemic to the island of New Ireland in Papua New Guinea. Sporting a vibrant red coloration, these crustaceans can reach lengths of up to 8 cm. Flourishing abundantly in the jungles of Papua New Guinea, they serve as a vital food source for various creatures, including humans.

The red crab migration, one of the largest mass migrations of land animals worldwide, is an astounding natural phenomenon. Each year, millions, yes millions of red crabs depart from their rainforest homes, trekking towards the shoreline to mate and lay their eggs. Their journey is grueling and perilous, with numerous casualties along the way. Nevertheless, those that reach the shore are rewarded with the chance to procreate, perpetuating the cycle of life.

Commencing in late October, the crabs begin their exodus from the rainforest, congregating along the coastline, awaiting the incoming tide. When the time is right, as the tide surges, they embark on their daring voyage across the open sea. Swimming tirelessly for days, sometimes even weeks, they eventually reach the welcoming shores.

This migration is an extraordinary spectacle, an experience that should not be missed.

Red crabs, native to the forests of New Guinea, exhibit a remarkable behavior. These crimson-hued creatures, measuring up to four inches in length, engage in an annual migration during the wet season, venturing from the forest to the sea for mating purposes.

The motivations driving this migration are multifaceted. Some crabs undertake this arduous journey in search of new food sources. Others seek refuge from predators, while some are driven by the need to find potential mates.

In December 1979, I had the privilege of witnessing a crab migration in Kavieng, Papua New Guinea. The sight of countless crabs moving in unison left an indelible impression on me. The resonating click of their claws against the ground still echoes in my memory.

The journey from Kaut to Kavieng was undoubtedly unforgettable. The roads teemed with millions of red crabs, posing a challenge to avoid inadvertently harming them. Despite this obstacle, the captivating scenery and the sheer magnitude of the experience made me appreciate the blessings bestowed upon me.

We halted our vehicle, mindful of not crushing the crabs beneath the weight of our truck tires. Witnessing the migration of these remarkable creatures was an awe-inspiring encounter. Although, as we resumed our journey, the unavoidable sound of crushed crabs under the car tires was disheartening. The sheer abundance of crabs made it impossible to prevent such unfortunate incidents. We paused for more than twenty minutes, surrounded by the jungle, before finally reaching our destination. The red crab, a stunning creature, was not to be harmed.

It was a breathtaking sight, a manifestation of Allah's wonders. I was informed that the phenomenon of red crab migration is also observed on Christmas Island in Western Australia. The migration of Christmas Island's red crabs is an astounding natural spectacle. Every year, millions of these crimson creatures migrate from the forest to the sea for breeding purposes. This arduous journey is fraught with perils, as the crabs must navigate roads and open areas, leaving them vulnerable to predators. Yet, driven by an unyielding determination, thousands of crabs successfully complete the pilgrimage to the sea annually. The Christmas Island red crab migration serves as a testament to the awe-inspiring power of nature.

Moving through the dense Kaut forest, I discovered more than the usual data collection. As our surveying team ventured deeper, remnants of a once-mighty Japanese fighter plane started to emerge. The decaying, moss-covered husk of it was intertwined with towering tree roots. Once a symbol of power, it now lay low on the forest floor, nature reclaiming its territory.

The sight was both eerie and captivating. The once polished airplane wings were now folded and damaged, while the cockpit stood empty and silent, a reminder of lost lives in this unforgiving wilderness. The wreckage melded with its surroundings, vines dangling from it as if trying to comfort the fallen soldiers. Drawing closer, a sense of fear mixed with curiosity overtook me as the smell of ruin served as a stark reminder of past sacrifices.

I couldn't help but wonder whether unclaimed human remains might still hide inside the cockpit of this rotting machine. Captivated by the debris, it felt more meaningful, symbolizing resilience and triumph amidst wreckage. This ill-fated plane in the New Ireland forest was not just a casualty of war but a beacon of hope, testifying to the strength and resolve of those fighting tyranny.

Faced with these remnants, gratitude welled up for those who fearlessly faced battle for a greater good. Their sacrifice ultimately led to an Allied victory, freeing New Ireland from Japanese occupation. When I finally left the site, I emerged with renewed awe and respect, the encounter with the Japanese fighter plane leaving an indelible mark on my soul.

The sacrifices made in New Ireland during WWII extended beyond written records, embodying the enduring courage and resilience of those who fought and died amid the chaos and devastation.

As I treaded through the lush Kaut forest, the atmosphere palpably saturated with a haunting sense of history. The vibrant green leaves above seemed to conceal the secrets of the past, whispering tales about the bygone times. My task predominantly involved surveying and inventorying, however, what I stumbled upon was not merely a depiction of the topography or a measure of distance.

Venturing deeper into the forest, relics of once mighty Japanese warplanes started emerging. The fragmented metal carcasses lied decomposing, shrouded in moss, and intricately entwined with the towering tree roots. These aircraft, once a symbol of power and domination, now laid low on the forest floor, with nature slowly reclaiming its territory with a gentle but inexorable force.

The sight was both terrifying and fascinating. The once slick and gleaming plane wings, now folded and damaged, seemed to bear the burden of the world's despair. The cockpit, where brave souls once steered this ship across the sky, now stood empty and mute, a contemplative reminder of lives lost amidst this unforgiving wilderness.

The debris had become part of its surroundings, blending with the green and brown fabric enveloping the forest. Vines hung on the side of the plane, their tendrils stretching out as if trying to console the fallen soldiers. The rustling of leaves and bird chatter created a ghastly symphony, a melancholic melody resonating with ghosts of the past.

As I approached cautiously, my heart pounded rapidly with a mixture of fear and curiosity. The smell of decay filled my nostrils, a stark reminder of the passage of time and sacrifices made. I couldn't help but wonder whether the remains of long-dead humans still lay hidde7n in the cockpit, their final resting place forever entwined with this decaying machine.

Enthralled by the wreckage, I realized that it symbolized something more profound, representing resilience and triumph amidst the backdrop of destruction. The fallen aircraft in the New Ireland forest were not only casualties of war, but also beacons of hope, showcasing the strength and resolve of those who stood against tyranny.

I felt a renewed sense of gratitude to those who had bravely faced the uncertainties of battle, willingly putting themselves in danger for a greater good. Their sacrifices ultimately brought victory to the Allies, liberating New Ireland from the grip of Japanese occupation. The debris before me stood as a stark reminder of their bravery and the price paid for freedom.

As I left the remnants behind, I emerged from the depths of the Kaut forest with a renewed sense of awe and respect. The encounter with the wreckage of the Japanese warplanes had left an indelible mark on my soul, framing a vivid image that lived on in my mind. The sacrifices made in New Ireland during World War II were more than just a historical record – they were living proof of the resilience and courage of those who fought and died amidst chaos and destruction.

millions red crabs flood the road

#papuatravels - Documenting your adventures across the island country
#pngphotos - Picturesque scenes from your PNG travels
#tribalterrains - Exploring remote traditional communities
#bushtreks - Hiking through lush rainforests and unique landscapes
#fruitforaging - Foraging for tasty indigenous fruits
#beachpicnics - Relaxing on unspoiled sandy shores
#culturalexchanges - Experiencing the diverse local cultures
#divepng - Underwater views of coral reefs and trop
#awalludinramlee

millions red crabs flood the road